Tuesday, October 26, 2010

An Apple (Pie) A Day...

When my kids were little we would celebrate October (National Apple Month) with stories of Johnny Appleseed, arts & crafts, apple prints on the fridge and, of course, lots and lots of apple pies.  Well, the kids are older now - story time is out and the fridge door is void of those treasured apple prints, but there are still apple pies in the oven.
While there are all kinds of cool, funky things to add to the apples in your pie, the best super “secret” ingredient I use isn’t in the apples at all…it’s in the crust.
Since a pie’s crust is baked under a juicy filling, it is critical that the crust remain dry. Start with enough fat.  It’s the fat that will make the dough flaky.  About half the fat should be butter for flavor and color, the other half should be vegetable shortening or lard (very high smoke point and, no, it doesn’t taste like bacon).  For best results freeze these fats first to give you longer to work with the dough before the fat begins to melt.
Make the crust dough first.  When adding liquid to bind the dry crust ingredients together, consider using your favorite liquor instead of water.  The alcohol doesn’t allow the protein in the flour to develop its gluten (the culprit in a tough crust).  Applejack is a great choice as it is distilled from apple cider.  
Flatten the dough into a disk and let it rest in the refrigerator to allow the flour to become fully hydrated and easier to roll out.
While the dough is resting, prepare the apples.  I mentioned previously I think golden delicious apples are the most reliable for baking - crisp without being too firm, sweet without being too sweet and tender without losing shape.  I “skip peel” them - removing big chunks of peel and any spots or bruises.  The remaining peel contains small amounts of pectin that help set up the pie and give it that classic, rustic look.
There is no need to stick to the old traditional flour to set up a pie’s filling.  I believe tapioca flour is the best ingredient to use when making most pies (substitute tapioca flour 1:1 in recipes using flour as the thickener).  Cornstarch is also a nice substitute (use only ½ the cornstarch as you would flour).
Use room temperature apples so the filling sets up without the crust burning.  The time of year or theme of the gathering determine my choice for flavorings.  I love unique pairings like apple and fennel or apple bacon. Think outside the limitations of that “apple pie spice” bottle and express your inner “Top Chef.”
Start with a HOT oven (450).  After the pie is in place and the door closed, immediately turn the heat down to 425.  This way the elements don’t come back on for a while - eliminating the burnt crust that can occur with immediate reheat.  A good 20-30 at 425 should be enough to set the proteins and quickly evaporate the moisture out of the crust.  Give the pie a turn so it will brown evenly and reduce the oven temp to 350 for the remainder of the baking. 
Lastly, (and almost impossibly in my house) allow the pie to cool completely so the filling can completely set up.  I must admit that my attempts to take pictures of my recipe results were thwarted by my family when I mistakenly turned my back for a few moments :).  Please enjoy my recipe below for a Galette – a quick and easy twist on an apple pie.
Eat Well,
Dawn
ANYTIME APPLE GALETTE
A Galette is a rustic, quick pie that my family prefers…it takes less time to bake and there is no pie plate to standin the way of eating (average life span of this Galette is about 4 minutes at my house).
Crust:
2 cups all purpose flour
1 tsp kosher salt
1 TBSP sugar
Mix dry ingredients together, and then add:
4 oz cold butter, grated
4 oz frozen shortening or lard, grated
Mix gently with finger tips until evenly blended.
5-6 TBSP iced applejack (pour over ice to chill first, then measure and add iced liquid)
Form dough into a disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for an hour to overnight.
Filling:
In a mixing bowl:
6 large Golden Delicious Apples – “skip peeled”, cored and sliced
Squeeze juice of ½ lemon onto apples
In another mixing bowl:
1/2 cup sugar
3 TBSP tapioca flour
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon spice of choice…be traditional (cinnamon) or creative (Garam Masala or 5 spice) 
Mix dry ingredients together, sprinkle over apples, toss and stir to combine.
Directions:
Roll out the crust to about ¼” thick and place onto a ½ sheet pan. 
Pour filling into the middle of the pie crust. Turn up the edges of the pie crust to surround the apples and hold in the juices.  The apples should be about half covered.
Paint the crust with egg and sprinkle with coarse sugar or cinnamon-sugar. 
Bake in a preheated 425 oven for 20 minutes. 
Rotate the pan 180 degrees, reduce heat to 350 and continue to bake for 30-40 minutes.  Filling will be bubbling in the center, with a nut brown outer crust and irresistible smell.
TRY to cool it all the way before eating, but if all else fails…just make sure you have plenty milk &/or ice cream on hand.
Dawn

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